Bengali's First Love - The Jhorna Ghee

Kitchens in a traditional Bengali household look is nothing less than a space research center. Every shelf will be stacked with different spices, condiments and most importantly a bottle of Ghee. But, however neatly things are kept, during the time of cooking, one is bound to find a scene of pandemonium with the cook scanning all around the kitchen for a particular spice or a seasoning. Amidst all these there is one special space always reserved for one special item. In fact, no Bengali kitchen is complete without the presence of this ‘heavenly jewel’ - The Jharna Ghee (also pronounced as Jhorna). 

Most of my readers might be wondering what is the big deal behind a bottle of ghee (clarified butter). Well, for any Bengali kitchen one would see a list of branded ghee from Anik Ghee me this is just not any other ghee. Jharna Ghee is an integral component for any Bengali cuisine. During my childhood I would long for the season of rains to begin. Am I sounding strange? Well it might because, “in the spring of a young Bengali’s fancy turns lightly to the thoughts of Khichuri”. I am sure Lord Tennyson may not be pleased by me butchering his immortal line. But, on a rainy Kolkata afternoon if I had treated him to a piping plate of hot Gobindobhog Rice, with mashed potatoes and a subtle dash of Jharna Ghee drizzled on top of it, I am sure he would relent it too.

During my summer holidays I recall we had gone to Bow Bazar and Sodepur. Welcome to the Sunderban Dairy & Farm, the mecca and the birthplace of the creation of this100 years old ghee. I was fortunate enough to actually witness how this ghee was created at the diary, since my father had a friend who used to work here. From that very moment everything that I relished had a touch of Jharna ghee. To an extent I recall an incident that occurred when I was working in London. We had an event party and the management had ordered for a special themed menu each signifying a cultural touch to it. While, we were ready with everything and we were ready to hit the floor. Moments before I was going through the checklist and to my utter shock found that there was no Jharna Ghee on the table. With me was the Head Chef  of 32 Street, Tom Aldwin and his team of brand chefs all looking blank! I remember, one of my colleague telling me in Hindi (so that others cannot decode), “Lahiri, ab rehne de, iss time pe Jharna Ghee kahan milega. I only looked upto him and said that we would not have a party if there is no Jharna Ghee and left the venue.

I started calling some of my Bengali friends in London, even started to scan online stores that could possibly deliver us the same. I was slowly sensing that I may have to go without this jewel, until my friend, Amitesh (a resident of London) sent me the address in a place called Shadwell and Brick Lane. The clock was ticking and and my colleague and I took to the next available metro. Next, I found myself in a place that looked like a lost part of Kolkata.

After scanning every possible shop, we finally pit stopped in front of a fishery store where there were only two bottles of Jharna Ghee left! I think luck was on our side and during the pop up Chef Aldwin along with my boss came upto me and in a serious tone informing that, Jeff Brixton, (Former Mayor of London) who was our Chief Guest for the party has asked for me. I was surely s@#$d for life until I saw him picking up the bottle of Jharna Ghee and telling me, “This tastes like heaven, can I take a piece of this home”. And, I stood there smiling at the fact that a prank was played on me and with pride I replied, “Sorry Sir, that’s every Bengali's and my only love, which I cannot share”! But I made it upto his request by specially hand delivering him a box of it when my parents came over to London meet me.

Later, that evening after the pop up was over, I decided to cook some special dishes for my team mates amongst which was the famous Moong Dal, Khichuri, followed with Ilish Bhaja and a few other items. While, tasting my boss asks me, “Gentleman what a lovely fragrance and what taste. Can you please share this recipe with me..And I laughed and said, it’s a secret that will remain one as I looked at the extra bottle of Jharna away from anyone’s eyes but mine and slowly whispered, Oh! Jhorna… Oh my darling!