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| A traditional Bengali Meal |
Quiet jokingly enough but it still remains a fact that while others eat to live, Bengali’s live to eat. Whether a ritual or festivity or even just a cricket match every event ends up with one thing, hearty feasts which involves countless intricately prepared dishes. Well, Kolkata has always had a rich culinary heritage and is considered as a gourmand’s paradise, home to one of the most evolved cuisines in the East.
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| Calcutta Fish Fry with Kasundi (Bengali Mustard Sauce) |
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| Kolkata Style Egg Chicken Roll |
While, today’s generation is hooked onto burgers and fried stuff, the young Bengalis are still connected to the inevitable spice of Jhaal Muri (Spicy puffed rice crispies), the sinfully delicious Chicken Rolls, or a battered Mughlai Porota and definitely Calcutta’s legendary Fish Fry with Kasundi (mustard sauce) because they perceive the taste of food that hits their soul! Probably this could be one of those reasons why Kolkata has still not been able to accept the McDonald’s or the KFC’s of the world and why food chains like Peetuk or Hanglas continue to impress the conservatively adventurous foodies. Even today, if you probably ask a Bengali irrespective of whether he is a foodie at heart or not, to choose between a kilo of gold and a kilo of Hilsa, it is not at all surprising that they would choose the latter any day!
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| A typical Bengali who lives to eat! |
People of Bengal and especially Calcutta have always had an unquestionable palate when it comes to recognizing the real taste behind any dish. In fact, during the recent food trials in Kolkata for one of our newly opened brands there was a couple who shared their critical feedback with me on the kind of ingredients and balance of taste.
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| Food fiesta during Durga Puja |
Probably, this is one of those reasons why anyone whether from a humble or evolved background is always well informed about a variety of dishes and one can actually witness this during the festive time of Durga Puja. But what is the most interesting aspect of Bengalis (including me) in every socio-economic class is their appetite and the pride of having ‘ombol’ (acidity).
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| Digene - A Bengali's Best Friend! |
It is one of those very fascinating incidents
from my college days. Being invited to a Bengali reception meant you required a
big appetite in order to have all that is there in store. Unfortunately, the
night prior to the reception we had decided to hit to a nearby restaurant for
some rolls which ended up in all of us complaining of acidity. So, I had
thought that the idea of going to the wedding would eventually get cancelled.
But to my utter shock the following evening I found my friends all dressed and
ready to roll. When I asked them what about their acidity attack one of them
handed me a strip of ‘pink tablets’ what we quite famously know as antacids
Digene and Gelusil. We all popped one and the rest was a food fiesta in the
making! And as they say that history repeats itself it was not very long that I had been in Kolkata with my Chief Culinary Director to taste the food of Aminia, which is famous for their Biryani. We ordered a sumptuous portion of Kolkata Biryani and chaanp. My chef was just in the mood of tasting it while I apparently ended up completing the entire portion by which time I was almost to the edge of my appetite. While my chef was shell shocked and quite concerned of its after effects I gave him a pleasant smile and told him not to worry. It’s just ‘ombol’ and popped out my old ‘friend’, Digene from my pocket which was indeed lifesaving! No doubt why the market of digestive medicines in this part of the city is so big!
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| Grocery shopping - A ritual in Kolkata |
An everyday morning grocery shopping or termed as ‘Baajar kora’ is like a ritual performed by every family in Calcutta. I remember when we used to all gather to dine and if the dishes were really delicious, my father would ask in the most concerning tone, ‘Aaj ke bajaar ta key coerce?’ (Who has done the grocery marketing today?). While, I used to question myself as to what was so unique about going to a grocery until I actually accompanied him and it’s just a different world altogether!
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| Tiretti Bazaar |
Calcutta has been known for its cheap yet vibrant and historic markets that sell an array of local and colorful goods. But what it is most famous of is for its local markets. We have the New Market previously known as the ‘Hogg’ Market founded by Sir Stuart Hogg in 1874, has almost 2000 stores and sells one of the best produces of local cheese and bakeries. The Terreti Market in Kolkata’s Chinatown is another legacy in itself which houses the Chinese-Indian population of the city and is a famous Chinese food street.
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| Gariahat Bazaar |
But what tops the list is the most celebrated market located in Gariahat, most famously known as ‘Gariahat Bazaar’. This is almost considered as the mecca of Kolkata markets which houses from a hair pin to hardware and from fruits to the best of fresh seafood, meat and vegetables and much more. In fact, one could witness the kind of bargaining being done right in the morning which would give any stock market a run for their money! And to put the icing on the cake we also have the ‘father of all markets’, The Burra Bazar.
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| Burra Bazaar - Asia's Largest Wholesale Market |
Helmed not only as one of India’s largest wholesale market in India but also the busiest. This a place where even Christopher Columbus might get lost if he didn’t have a map! It houses from jewelry to freshly ground spices, a dedicated fruits and vegetable market and a huge section for seafood and poultry. There’s a saying if you are in Calcutta and you have not visited the Burra Bazar you have not witnessed the pulse of the city.
Internationally, especially in parts of Europe,
chefs are considered to be ‘Can Chefs’ as they rely on using their ingredients
which are canned. In fact, I have to frequently travel to different parts of
the world to source the best of ingredients for my restaurants. And believe me
when I say that there is no better place than the city of Calcutta which
sources the best of produce be it for vegetables, fruits or the breed of
fishes, poultry, beef or pork including ‘Kancha Lonka’ (Green Chillies)
which is one of the best in Bengal. Probably, that is one of the reasons why
Indian chefs so frequently travel to this part of the city and are considered
to be ‘Can Do’ chefs!
Another quite interesting fact of the food trends
of Calcutta is that it changes with its seasons. During the summers when the
sun is shining high and mighty the city prefers to switch to fresh vegetables
and take a minimalistic approach to cooking.
I remember when I was a child during the summers my mother would cook us
Aam Tok Dal (Bengali Mango Dal)
or a Shuktoni or famously known as Shukto (a Bengali styled Mixed
Vegetable cooked in the most unique spices with creamy milky gravy) or a Shojne
Shaak Chorchori (a medley of stir fried vegetables, like drumsticks,
eggplants, red pumpkin and potatoes with a dash of mustard base)which is known
for its anti-inflammatory/oxidant properties. And definitely a Rui Maacher
‘patla’ Jhol (Summer Fish Stew) served with steamed rice, because we Bongs’
cannot see a world without fishes!
Come rains and the city finds one more excuse
to begin feasting on some of the most sought-after delicacies. But at first it
has to start with a cup of Gorom khurir chaa’ (A cup of hot tea served
in earthen pots) This would be followed with an Egg Chicken Roll quite a
must for the quintessential Bengalis. At home this was the only time when we
would get to taste the Queen of fishes the Ilish (Hilsa) accompanied
with Rice. Ah… the taste of which can give the French run for their money
compared to the caviar they serve! But the most comfort food that every Bengali
would definitely relish is the traditional flavor of Moong Dal Khichuri with
Begun Bhaja. (Khichdi served with fried brinjal fritter).
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| Sun Yat Sen Street - Little China of Kolkata |
The city may not really get cold but winters in
Kolkata are something akin to a warm familial embrace - comforting and
endearing. A ride to the Sun Yat Sen Street in central Kolkata for breakfast
for a Fish Ball Soup or a plate of Crisp Wontons and Sweet Pork-
Stuffed Bao or the best of Home-made Pork Sausages is not something
to be missed. As the temperature dips further Calcuttans make it a point to
visit the Nakhoda mosque area during the night to taste some of the best beef
shanks and Nihari. This is also one of those times when every Bengali
gets ‘sweetly infectious’.
The city’s myriad delectable treats will make
any foodie never want to leave. From the fanciest restaurants to the high-powered
chefs or revisiting the forgotten memories of relishing the city’s roadside
delicacies can never be forgotten. But the greatest and secret ingredient in
Calcutta’s food culture is humility that is needed to dedicate oneself to its
craft. And given the city’s amazing culinary landscape there is humility in
every morsel of food here - the secret to Calcutta’s food brilliance.
